Saturday, 5 September 2009

Fraser Island

The local Aboriginal people call Fraser Island ‘K’Gari’, which is very fitting as it roughly translates into paradise. It is said that all the sand from the eastern coast of Australia eventually ends up at Fraser Island, a ­gigantic World Heritage–listed sand bar measuring 120km by 15km and created by 800, 000 years of longshore drift.

Fraser Island is the only place in the world where tall rainforests are found growing on sand dunes at elevations of over 200 metres. These rainforests along with around 40 freshwater lakes dot the landscape, and dunes (known locally as ‘sandblows’) tower up to 224m high. Off-shore, whales, dolphins, sharks and turtles can often be seen from these high points. These high points such as Indian Heads provides guaranteed sights of these amazing animals.

As Fraser is one big sandpit a 4x4 is essential so we left our campervans on mainland and hired out this beast of a landcruiser between the 6 of us that came with all the required camping gear. We took the short ferry crossing over to Fraser, where we were surprised to arrive on a road. However this didn't last for long as once we exited the car park we were on the softest sand, single track 'road' and within 30 seconds there was a traffic jam. This was caused by Japanese clowns in front who had managed to get bogged down in the sand and didn't think to reverse or get out and push, they just continued to push the accelerator and dig themselves in deeper. Thankfully the tour bus driver behind us pulled the guy out the 4x4 and showed him how it was done. We were briefly told to floor it and not to stop to get through this chewed up sand that they had created.

















None of us were prepared for this drive through the sand as we all assumed it would be a standard off road track and within minutes we were all getting thrown about the car as well as the food and booze. Here is a picture of the boot that was previously nicely packed and now was destroyed along with some of our pot noodles :(








After assessing the damage it was time to hit the beach as this is the quickest way to travel on the island, providing you stick out with high tide. We drove along the beach and found a spot to set up camp and were going to continue driving later on but decided to take a walk instead.









Once camp was set up we took a walk to Eli Creek. This was not far from where we had camped. After rainfall Eli Creek becomes a fast-moving, crystal-clear waterway that will carry you effortlessly downstream. As it wasn't wet season when we were there it was only knee deep and we were able to walk up the stream and back. Fortunately for Gemma, she didn't see the python warning sign until after she had came out the water so she was able to enjoy it.









After seeing this it was time to walk back to the campsite and do what Scots do best - have a BBQ and drink. During this Zara managed to spot some whales which we were all able to see but they were too far out to get any pics.

The next day we drove to Indian Heads which is the furthest north we were allowed to go. This involved driving along the beach for 40km then take the bypass around the heads which is supposed to be the one of the hardest parts to drive on but the beast of the Landcruiser sailed through it.


















The rock outcrop of Indian Head is the best vantage point on the island. Sharks, manta rays, dolphins and humpback whales can often be spotted from the top of the headland. Within minutes we seen all of these minus the sharks, although we did manage to see a turtle instead which balances it out. Unfortunately we don't have any pics as although they were close enough for us to see, the cameras didn't pick them up clearly. Here is a few pics of the view from the top.



















After Indian Heads we went to see the shipwreck on the island. The Maheno was a passenger liner that was blown ashore by a cyclone in 1935 while being towed to a Japanese scrap yard and is now a major tourist attraction.The Maheno was built in Glasgow in 1904 and was the world’s first ever triple screw steamer, weighing a massive 5323 tonnes. It also held the blue ribbon in trans-atlantic crossing for several years after she was launched. The Maheno was then used as a hospital ship in WW 1, following which it was purchased by a Sydney shipping company who planned to use it between Sydney and New Zealand. After several years of this trans Tasman journey the Maheno was sold to a Japanese shipping company, that at the time were running very low on funds. The company made the decision to sell the huge brass propellers from under the still-working Maheno. The reason behind this was to fund the towing of the Maheno by a ship named the Ottawa back to Osaka, Japan. Once in Japan the Maheno was to be melted down and be sold as scrap metal. It was on this journey that the Maheno was hit by an unseasonal cyclone off the coast of Fraser. Luckily, there was only a skeleton crew on board. Some of the stories of the ship washing up on Fraser tell the tale of the Japanese crew being too afraid to get off the vessel after hearing of the cannibalistic traits of the local Aborigines. Attempts were made to refloat the Maheno unsuccessfully and eventually it was left abandoned on what is now known as 75-mile beach.

















As we were driving back along the beach towards the camp we seen a big bird flying above us with something dangling from it. We soon realised it was a snake. The bird eventually dropped it and we stopped the car and ran out for a closer inspection and this is what we came across:









Another bit of wildlife that we seen maybe too much of was Dingoes. We were warned about them before going to Fraser and the 4x4 company made us watch a video that advised us to have a Dingo buddy at all times even when going to the toilet! We thought this was exaggerated until they started invaded our camp area. At first only 1 appeared and was easily chased away but as the night went on more and more came and involved more effort to chase them away. Here are some of the pics of just how close they were.









In the middle of the island is Central Station, the starting point for numerous walking trails. On the last day we went here and saw a 7ft snake which Colin thinks was a python in the river.











After this it was time to travel to Lake McKenzie. Lake McKenzie is a 'perched' lake, formed by water accumulating on top of a thin impermeable layer of decaying twigs and leaves. Here you can exfoliate your skin with the mineral sand and soften your hair in the clear water. Sure enough within minutes of arriving we seen a tour guide washing his teeth and whole body with the sand from the bottom of the water as apparently its full of silicon. As me and Colin turned around to say to everyone else to look at this weird guy we realised the rest of them were in the water also doing this. We gave it a miss as we prefer the taste and smell of proper products such as toothpaste and soap to sand!



















Here is a few examples of how we scared away the Dingoes:









Hopefully we have given you a decent insight into how great Fraser was, as we both agree that it has been one of the top places we have visited so far, with its different enviroment and wide range of wild life, not to mention its crazy roads that definitely helped make it more enjoyable. To be honest with you, Fraser has plenty to see and offer but we would have been just as happy with rallying this beast of a Landcruiser around the island for 3 days without seeing anything as driving it off road was the most fun we have had in ages. Heres a few pics of the supposed roads:

















We both agreed to sell our Corsa's when we get home and chip in and buy a Landcruiser as we loved driving it that much. We may need more money so if anyone else wants to chip in feel free.

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